The Florence Arts & Culture Guide
Frescoes, gardens, & artisans galore
Few places can compete with the sheer volume of art to take in as what Florence has on offer. So just immediately make peace with the fact that you won’t see it all, and know that it’s actually ok to feel overwhelmed by the crowds at the Uffizi. You are more than welcome to seek art elsewhere. Everyone is going to recommend the Uffizi, Galleria dell'Accademia, and the Duomo. They’re the heavy hitters of Florence, and for good reason. They’re outstanding. But there are still countless other museums, galleries, and churches that will astound you with their beauty.
In this guide, I’ve written about the cultural places that have impacted me the most in Florence. You’ll find fresco-adorned architecture, a slew of museums, tranquil gardens with city views, and a myriad of shops selling wonderfully unique and special wares. I often think about how extraordinary it is that so much of Florence has been preserved to honor its past and keep centuries-old traditions alive. It’s a beautiful city, in so many ways, and I hope you have a fantastic time exploring its many delights.
Buon Viaggio!
— Katie
The Palazzo Vecchio is stunning. Built in the early 14th century to house the city government, it still serves as the mayor’s office and home to the municipal council. The frescoed courtyard alone is impressive, but it’s just an introduction to what lies ahead. The Hall of the Five Hundred wows with its enormous scale in every which way, but what I loved most of all was exploring the vast living quarters that begin just after the Hall. It’s frescos galore with so many intricate, intriguing details. You could truly spend all day here, especially if you’re visiting the map room. The entire fortress of a palace is fascinating, and one of my favorite things in Florence.
Basilica di Santa Maria Novella
While this 15th-century Dominican church will be recommended by just about everyone, I had to include it in my list because the frescoes inside are so extraordinary. The large basilica is incredible — truly just some jaw-dropping gorgeous frescos and stained glass — but don’t ignore the cloisters and Spanish Chapel. Take your time strolling the Grand Cloisters that surround a green interior courtyard: with fifty-three frescoed lunettes, there is so much to take in. Then make your way to the Cloister of the Dead to see part of the ancient original structure of the old Dominican convent. It’s wild to discover how many frescoes are still so vibrant after all these years. I then recommend saving the Spanish chapel for last: with every inch on the chapel painted, it’s an awe-inspiring sight to behold.
Everyone flocks to Piazzale Michelangelo to take in a panoramic view of Florence. I recommend going even higher on the hill for fewer crowds paired with an 11th-century Romanesque church to explore. The basilica is lit entirely by natural light that streams through the windows, providing a particularly moving atmosphere. If you’re in Florence in May, stop in and stroll the Giardino dell'Iris just off the Piazzale Michelangelo as you make your way back down the hillside.
I pop into this 11th-century Roman Catholic church every time I’m in Florence. The exterior is unassuming, but inside, in the back right corner lies the magnificent Sassetti Chapel. You’ll need a Euro or two to slide into the coin box of the chapel in order to illuminate the frescos by Ghirlandaio, but it’s well worth it, and you’ll likely be providing light for a few other onlookers who will then put some coins in themselves after the lights go out because more time is needed to take in all the details.
Just across the piazza from Basilica di Santa Trinita sits the 13th-century palazzo home of the Ferragamo empire. The boutique is at street level, while the small museum can be found in the basement. There’s a room with a permanent display of 1920s and 30s Ferragamo shoes that’s always interesting to see, with temporary exhibitions exploring a myriad of social and historical narratives found throughout fashion. Stopping by this little museum is a fun way to break up a day that’s typically focused on art that was made centuries ago.
This may be a Renaissance palazzo, but it’s been transformed into a contemporary art museum that hosts exhibitions by major players in the art world. In the fall of 2022, I caught an Olafur Eliasson retrospective that took up the entirety of the palazzo’s exhibition space. What delighted me most of all was how particular pieces made fantastic use of the building’s architectural details. I recommend buying tickets in advance so you can avoid any lines, and be sure to check out the gift shop that carries a great selection of art books and products made in Florence.
Florence exists as it does largely because of the Medici, so it’s only fitting to then visit the lavishly decorated chapels that adjoin Basilica di San Lorenzo, where they’re buried. Built between the 16th and 17th centuries to celebrate the family that patronized the church and served as the Grand Dukes of Tuscany, the chapels feature an abundance of marble, frescos, gold leaf, semi precious stones, and many sculptures by Michelangelo. They’re as over-the-top ornate as you could possibly imagine.
Palazzo Pitti Museum of Costume and Fashion
The Palazzo Pitti is worth visiting in its own right. It was the palatial home of the Medici and properly represents their extreme wealth and taste. There is no shortage of opulence within these walls. But what tends to fall under the radar is the Museum of Costume and Fashion that is housed within the Pitti Palace. Amid fourteen splendidly decorated rooms with frescoed ceilings are excellent displays of Italian fashion and its social significance. From 18th century formal wear to Versace, the museum’s collection of clothing, jewelry, and accessories are a feast for the eyes for anyone even remotely interested in fashion.
The manicured gardens of Florence are their own works of art, and the sprawling mass of the Giardino Boboli still feel very regal. Directly behind Palazzo Pitti, the gardens were originally designed for the Medici, serving as one of the first examples of a formal Italian garden, and subsequently influencing a whole host of European court gardens. Within the gardens, you’ll discover charming fountains, wandering paths, and sculptures in a variety of styles — some from the Renaissance, others more contemporary — tucked in amongst the greenery. Don’t miss Buontalenti’s grotto and be sure to climb all the stairs to the Fontana delle Scimmie for hillside views and a glimpse of the 14th century city wall.
This terraced garden is just exquisite. Visiting in spring will provide the most drama, when an arched tunnel of purple wisteria blooms and gives the garden an extra romantic air. No agenda here, just wander as you wish and take in the greenery. I recommend ending your visit to the garden with a beverage at the cute little bar at the top of the Baroque staircase. It’s a great way to unwind after ample walking, and you get a fabulous view of the garden and the Florentine skyline. Note that the garden has two entrances. If you’re coming from anywhere along the Arno, enter on Via de’ Bardi; if you’re walking over from Palazzo Pitti and Giardino Boboli, use the Costa San Giorgio entrance.
With an abundance of roses sloping down a hillside and the terracotta rooftops of Florence just past the garden, the ambiance here is peak romance. It’s one of the most peaceful and bucolic places to relax in Florence, with spectacular views of the city as a wonderful added bonus.
Open only from April 25th through May 20th when the iris are in bloom, this petite garden is absolutely worth visiting if you’re in Florence during that time. Open since 1957, there are hundreds of different species of iris from all over the world. It’s free, but run by volunteers, so consider donating to help keep the garden going.
Officina Profumo - Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella
The crown jewel of shopping in Florence that makes buying a simple bar of soap an elevated, novel experience. Housed in a former convent, this fantastically opulent store has been selling herbal remedies and cosmetics since 1612. Walk down the hallway to enter the boutique and you’ll be encouraged to first take in the frescoed sacristy of the original chapel before exploring the various salesrooms. Each room is more beautiful than the next, with fragrant soaps and perfumes tucked under glass and ceramic domes to be lifted and sniffed. It’s as elegant as can be with every single detail thoughtfully considered. I always buy olive oil and milk soaps, sweet little tins of mints, and sometimes treat myself to their hand cream. You will likely stumble across two tiny outposts of the shop within the historic center… These are not what you’re looking for. You need to go to the original location to get the full experience.
This profumiere may not be as wildly grand as Santa Maria Novella, but it is still a very beautiful space housed in what was once the stables of a Renaissance palazzo. The space feels very tranquil, with dim lighting and scents and soaps handsomely displayed on antique tables and in mahogany cabinets. I’m most drawn to the tomato leaf products, and find it hard to not bring a stack of soaps home with me. If you’re curious to learn more about the art and skill that goes into making luxurious perfumes, AquaFlor offers workshops with a master perfumer where you’ll design your own custom fragrance.
One of the joys of travel is discovering the local grocery and beauty products, and in Italy, a lot of them tend to be in gorgeous packaging. Pop into Pegna dal 1860 for a particularly delightful experience perusing the aisles of this gourmet grocer. Take your time to look through the entire shop, it’s just incredible. I bought an Italian toothbrush here and on a whim and am converted. It’s Acca Kappa bristles for me from here on out — they’re just somehow superior to anything else I’ve used.
The old school art shops in Italy are just my favorite. Zecchi is packed to the gills with every odd material you could imagine, has an outstanding selection of paper, pencils, and paint, and the guys who run the place are real characters. No matter how many times I see colorful jars of pigments lined up in Italian art shops, I’m still delighted, and their array behind the counter is striking.
A paper producer older than most of the art in Florence, Fabriano was founded in 1264 in the town that bears the company name. Despite their longevity, the boutique is home to a clean, contemporary line of paper products and writing utensils. The quality of paper is outstanding, and some of the pens on offer are quite fancy. If you’re seeking a buttery leather-bound journal, elevated sketchbook, or sophisticated pencil case, you will love Fabriano.
To appreciate the traditional methods of making and decorating paper by hand, stop in Il Papiro. They have several locations throughout Florence, so you’ll likely stumble upon one even if you’re not seeking it out. Their products are lovely and make you want to become the type of person who has calligraphed place cards for dinner party guests. I gravitate more towards the stationary here, it’s just classy. They offer lots of marbled paper products, but the vibe is much more Renaissance Italy than the more playful Riccardo Luci (below).
I’m mildly obsessed with the marbled paper and leather in Florence and this is my favorite place to ogle it. The shop owner, Riccardo, is very nice, and can often be found in the midst of marbling paper at a workstation in the middle of the shop so you can watch the process. You’ll find everything from journals and stationary to leather keychains and passport cases that have been embellished with marbling. Each item is unique and a fun way to bring home a memory of Florence. They also offer marbling classes, so chat with Riccardo if you’re keen to learn the craft yourself.
There’s no shortage of leather goods in Florence, but Il Bisonte’s original store is where I always return. Even if I have no intention of buying anything, it’s nice to look through their collection. The craftsmanship and quality is far superior to anything you’ll find in the city’s markets, and will last a lifetime. Keeping things super local, every bag, wallet, and belt is made of leather that has been tanned, cut, and hand stitched within a 30 kilometer radius of their manufacturing headquarters in Florence.
You’ll likely notice lots of velvet slippers as you wander Florence, either on local’s feet or in shop windows. They’re Venetian and lovely, and if you want a high quality pair but can’t make it up to Venice, then Heart to Heart in the Oltrarno is the next best option. Available in a wide array of colors, this petite shop also makes flowy dresses, tunics, and pants in sumptuous fabrics. But the shoes are what they’re known for and they’re just perfectly Italian.
Vintage Shopping
I’m not much of a vintage clothing shopper myself, but I’ve tagged along with friends while they rummaged through the racks, and these are the shops they’ve loved the most and return to again and again:
Santo Spirito Market
Each Sunday, Piazza Santo Spirito plays host to a market, with vendors changing each week. You’ll find local ceramics, jewelry, leather, and paper goods on the second Sunday of the month while the third Sunday focuses on culinary delights: olive oil, cheese, pastries, etc. The final Sunday of the month is the most fun as the piazza is filled with antique and vintage furniture, homewares, art, and clothing. If you’re in Florence on a Sunday, it’s worth stopping by to check out the scene.
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