The Florence Sips & Bites Guide
Pizza! Pasta! Gelato! Espresso! Campari!
First, a few words about travel guides…
I’m not a fan of words like “definitive.” It’s just not my style, so don’t think of my travel guides as anything that could be in that category. The best part about travel is stumbling upon something that turns out to be fantastic. This guide, like any guide, is here to do just that: guide, to point you in the direction of a few wonderful things that I enjoyed and you probably will too. Whatever resonates with you, follow that path.
I’m not doing anything revolutionary here, but this particular niche of writing is something I’m very excited to properly dive into after years of giving friends extensive recommendations. It’s the start of a larger project that will materialize when the time is right. I’m inspired and that feels great because inspiration can be a tricky thing. Thank you to everyone who’s coming along for the ride, it’s sure to be a fun one.
To start things off, we’re going to Florence because it’s a spectacular city and deserves your attention. Even if you’ve been before, chances are you agree that it’s worth another visit. It’s an exceptionally beautiful place, with a culinary scene that is just as notable as its impressive art collection. Avoid any spot where someone is trying to lure you inside — it’s a tourist trap — and you’ll be rewarded with a dynamic array of handmade pasta, wood-fired pizza, and the creamiest gelato, all made with the freshest ingredients. Drink espresso standing at the counter amongst locals, try something new that intrigues you, and savor every minute of aperitivo with a breathtaking view. As it goes for anywhere in Italy, prepare to be utterly delighted with each new indulgence.
The Florence Arts & Culture Guide arrives tomorrow, overflowing with the art, architecture, gardens, and shops that make this city marvelously unique and profoundly intoxicating. The next travel guide will be all about Rome. It’s robust, so stay tuned for that release in May.
Buon Viaggio!
— Katie
An old school Florentine classic that’s been around since 1945. Arrive hungry and settle in for a mouthwatering feast. It’s here that I’ve enjoyed some of the best pasta and fried zucchini flowers ever. Part of the menu changes with the seasons alongside year round staples that are just sublime. It’s one of those places where the waiters have been there for decades and will do their utmost to ensure you have a memorable meal. Make a reservation to ensure you snag a table. And save room for dessert. Seriously, save room for dessert.
Panzanella (chopped salad of tomato, onion, cucumber, and stale bread) and pappa del pomodoro (tomato bread soup) are what Osteria Cinghiale Bianco is known for, and for good reason. Start with those before moving onto pasta (I like the taglierini with truffle, but many rave about the wild boar pappardelle), and if you somehow have room, whatever secondi you can manage. Stanley Tucci made the place even more popular, so a reservation is almost always needed.
Tucked away on a quiet street in the Oltrarno, this casual trattoria is ideal for a relaxed lunch or dinner al fresco. They have ample dining space inside, but it’s a very different atmosphere, so I recommend a table outside above anything else. I can hardly ever manage the full antipasto, primi, secondi manner of dining in Italy, so a simple rocket salad or prosciutto di melone followed by ravioli with butter and sage or taglierini with fresh tomato is what I get here and it’s terrific.
Now, I’m not a steak connoisseur — I don’t exactly eat a lot of meat to begin with. But I will say with confidence that the blueberry steak at Acqua Al 2 is one of the most delicious forays into eating meat that I’ve ever experienced. It’s an iconic spot for steak in a city full of steak. What sets Acqua Al 2 apart is an inventive menu, a cozy and festive ambience, and impeccable service.
Famous for having the only functioning wine window in Florence, Babae is so much more than that. Yes, it’s novel to drink wine in the street using a method put into place by Cosimo de Medici in 1559 that allowed rich Florentines to sell the wine they produced on their country estates directly from little windows in their city palazzos. But Babae is also a lovely restaurant offering a plant and seafood forward menu that is a welcome reprieve when you need a break from the city’s heavier dining options.
Truly some of the best pizza ever. I don’t know what sorcery is happening in the kitchen, but it’s working. Serving up Neapolitan pizzas with incredibly fluffy crusts and a nice balance between the classics and inventive new creations, you will only be delighted at Al Solito Posto. It’s a popular spot, so I recommend making a reservation if you have your heart set on eating here, which you should, it’s fabulous.
Using only organic ingredients and sourdough as the base of each pie, their pizzas have that perfect balance of soft and crunchy. Whatever you order, it’ll be great, and pre-cut (a rarity in Italy) into 8 slices to encourage sharing with your table mates. They have several locations in Florence (and in Italy for that matter), but I’ve only eaten at their Santa Croce outpost. I love the outdoor seating that provides superb people watching.
Pino’s Sandwiches - Salumeria Verdi
I recommend this spot for a panino a thousand times over All’Antico Vinaio (which will just be a zoo of people taking selfies with their sandwiches — perhaps amusing from an anthropological angle, but not how I want to enjoy my lunch). Whether you order off the menu, try a special, or make your own concoction, you’re in for a delicious and affordable lunch. The menu is more meat heavy, but vegetarians will still find plenty of ingredients to make a stellar sandwich.
If you’re looking for some panino in the Oltrarno, this is where to go. It’s on a cute little piazza with seating inside if you need to rest your legs, or stop by the takeout window to get your panino to go and eat elsewhere. Their schiacciata (a thinner, chewier cousin of focaccia) is tops, the veggie filling options are excellent, and the staff super friendly. Really anything will be fantastic, so just go with whatever sounds the most interesting upon reading the menu.
A coffee and pastry at Caffè Gilli’s serpentine counter is truly the best way to start the day in Florence. Whatever you order, it will be expertly prepared by someone in a crisp white shirt and vest, and taste phenomenal. As the oldest cafe in the city, the whole vibe here is classy old world elegance. We’re talking hand-painted, corniced ceilings, sparkling chandeliers, and the most beautiful display case of pastries. A simple cornetto is always great, but if you’re feeling particularly indulgent, go for one of the fancy concoctions. It will absolutely be worth it.
Translated as “a factory of artisans,” Ditta Artigianale is a specialty coffee roaster with five locations throughout Florence. Their shops may be more modern, both in aesthetics and actual longevity compared to many other things in this city, but the fair-trade, in-house roasted coffee they make is phenomenal. Because I cannot drink coffee without a little snack, I must also recommend their cornetto. I’ve linked to their Via dello Sprone location because it has air conditioning and if you’re in Florence in the summer and need a midday espresso, this is going to feel like a god send.
I love an old school tea shop. There’s something so classy about all the big tins impeccably aligned on a wall, the practice of smelling the teas, the weights and measurements. La Via Del Tè is very much that. While they have three locations in Florence, I recommend the Santo Spirito shop because there is a lovely cafe in the back. I usually stop here on a rainy afternoon to have a cup of tea, maybe a slice of matcha cheese cake, and then shop a bit on my way out.
Cozy yet brimming with activity, S. Forno is perfect for tucking into a corner with some schiacciata (a thinner, chewier cousin of focaccia) or bomboloni (cream filled doughnut, but better). The bakery offers a bountiful selection of fresh bread, pastries, and pizza, alongside handmade pasta. The space also serves as a small gourmet food store, with a wide array of artisanal sauces, jams, olives, canned tomatoes, cheese, salumi, pistachio cream, etc to pack for a picnic or bring home. Signage is nothing more than some writing on their front door, which is usually open, so look for a large “Panifico” sign above the doorway.
Hats off to whoever in 1939 came up with a gelateria name that translates to “Why not?” Time and time again, this is my absolute favorite gelato in all of Florence. Obviously get whatever your heart desires, and they have excellent seasonal flavors, but if you want some guidance, you can’t go wrong with pistacchio (pistachio), bacio (hazelnut chocolate), or fiordilatte con amarene (milk creme with black cherries).
As Florence’s oldest gelateria, Vivoli is simply a classic. Therefore, I say go for the classics here: get a scoop of stracciatella (essentially chocolate chip, but somehow elevated) and pair it with pistacchio. Curious about affogato and down for a nice sugar/caffeine high? This is where you want to indulge in affogato, a simple but satisfying Italian treat consisting of vanilla gelato doused in a shot of hot espresso.
This is the place to go for chocolate gelato. I have not tried anything other than decadent chocolate flavors here and I don’t know why you would stray: Venchi is a chocolate shop that just so happens to be skilled at making gelato as well. For anyone who’s a brat about cocoa percentages, Venchi is for you.
Treat yourself to aperitivo at Rivoire. Just do it. Not only are the negronis phenomenal, and the accompanying snacks fantastic, but the outdoor terrace has the absolute best piazza view in Florence. Situated on a corner of the Piazza della Signoria, Rivoire looks out at the Palazzo Vecchio and Loggia dei Lanzi. It’s people watching galore, with awe-inspiring architecture and sculpture to boot. Though I only frequent Rivoire for aperitivo, this historic cafe has a full restaurant menu, and specializes in chocolate, so you can indulge even further.
I love a rooftop bar, there’s always a special ambiance with an open air scene high above street level. If you want drinks with a view and you’re not at Rivoire, then you should be at Loggia. Located on the 5th floor of the Hotel Palazzo Guadagni, the bar is in the 16th century building’s loggia (a covered outdoor corridor) with spectacular panoramic views of Florence and the surrounding hills. The vibe is laidback, romantic, and relaxing. You will undoubtedly have a wonderful experience sipping a Spritz here.
Tucked in amongst Via Tornabuoni’s designer stores, Procacci is a very chic choice for a drink, ideally paired with a bite size panino slathered in truffle cream. With a history of being the Italian royal family’s official truffle supplier until the end of the monarchy, the purveyors at Procacci are well versed in all things truffle. The interior is beautiful, boasting a marble-topped mahogany bar and terrazzo floor, while the outdoor seating assures some top-notch people watching. Either way, you’re in for a treat.
I consider Il Santo to be the best wine bar in Florence. It’s snug and cozy, perfectly housed inside a former wine cellar, with casual sidewalk seating and people regularly spilling out into the street, glass in hand, chatting. Each glass of wine comes with a delicious crostino, whereas the bottle list features smaller wine producers, many from around Tuscany. An excellent choice for aperitivo or a boozy pit stop while exploring the Oltrarno. And don’t miss their trattoria next door, Il Santo Bevitore, which is highlighted in the Restaurants section above.
This cocktail bar has a dark, moody vibe and only carries Italian spirits. You’ll find the classics on the menu, but also fun riffs and inventive recipes dreamt up by the bartenders. With an inventory of nearly one hundred different amaros, it’s the ideal place for a night cap. Take in the decor, mid-century Italian music, and stylish crowd as you sip and unwind from what was surely a fabulous day exploring Florence.
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